A similar epiphany took place on a trip to Rome, practically the birthplace of artichokes. (Modern-day artichokes are presumed to be cultivated versions of those that grew wild in southern Italy, where they were preserved with honey, vinegar and spices and reserved for aristocrats.) I had gotten lost, and then I got hungry. A kindly police officer led me to Piperno, a restaurant in the old Jewish section. There I dined on carciofi alla giudia, a wonder of twice-fried artichoke that comes out of its sizzling olive oil bath at full flavor and flower with four inches of crispy stem sticking up in the air.

Food historians have no idea who first discovered that prickly artichokes could actually be eaten, but consuming one gracefully can be a challenge. The simplest and most time-honored way is to serve a whole steamed artichoke with a small bowl of melted butter and some lemon wedges. Devotees are familiar with the hands-on method: the cooked artichoke is doused with lemon juice, outer leaves are pulled off and dipped in the butter, and the leaf is placed between one's upper and lower teeth and the flesh is scraped free of the leaf. Once all the green leaves have been pulled, any pink, red or purple leaves should be discarded. Hopefully, the cook has removed the choke, and the treasured heart can then be eaten with a spoon.

Eating whole artichokes sans utensils is popular for good reason. For instance, patrons dining at North One 10 in Miami want more than just wonderful food. Chef-proprietor Dewey LoSasso asks, "What better way to break the ice than to serve an old-fashioned, Italian-style breadcrumb- and garlic-stuffed whole artichoke? Diners can settle in and eat with their fingers and drink good wine in true community."

While the pluck-and-dip ritual is arguably rewarding, in Mediterranean countries, where people have been eating artichokes for centuries, no one has the patience for this dainty ceremony. They go right for the heart, whacking off the leaves, scooping out the chokes, trimming the stems and maybe stuffing them, braising them or putting them in a heavy pan under a fat-dripping roast.

Interestingly, it was not Spanish missionaries who introduced this cash crop to California. Nor was it the French, who established commercial production of the vegetable in Louisiana in the 1800s. (They had first "acquired" the artichoke from Italy via Catherine de Medici when she married Henry II in 1533.) Rather it was the Swiss-Italians, who also planted the first wine vineyards in the Salinas Valley, who launched the artichoke there. They planted their fields in the Half Moon Bay area south of San Francisco during the mid-1800s. In 1871, when a chef at San Francisco's Palace Hotel created Green Goddess dressing and served it as a dipping sauce for steamed or boiled artichokes, the ancient vegetable became a proverbial overnight sensation.

Michaela Rodeno, CEO of St. Supéry, recently discovered that the North One 10 menu can be something of an artichoke thrill ride. The winery had just released a 2004 Limited Edition Dollarhide, its first single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, and she invited a few writers to test-drive it with LoSasso's artichoke hearts, pierced like kebabs by smoking grapevines and served with garlicky mayonnaise.

"I was beginning to believe the folk wisdom about avoiding wine-artichoke combinations until we arrived at Chef LoSasso's artichoke with aïoli - that worked beautifully with the Sauvignon Blanc. It makes sense: At home we always drink wine with artichokes, served with mayonnaise when time is short or a simple sauce of melted butter seasoned with garlic, lemon, salt and pepper."

Likewise, Chiarello believes in circumventing perceived taboos. "I find the caramelization of roasted or grilled artichokes takes away the raw edge, and allows them to be combined with red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Petite Sirah. The tannins in these wines are well integrated and bring the wine and the artichokes into harmony."

Making the right match, like winemaking itself, is something of an art, but Simi Winery chef Eric Lee also pairs artichokes and wine with aplomb. "Artichokes leave a notable, astringent bitterness behind," he contends. "Red wine's tannins and oak aging wage war with those of the artichoke and are poor choices. A dry [white] wine with a high acid content, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, will help to balance this effect." He recommends boiling artichokes in an ample amount of water, in order to eliminate as much of the cynarin as possible, before proceeding with a recipe. He adds salt and seasonings after the artichokes are cooked. "The dressing or sauce served with the artichoke can also affect the wine flavor, often making the pairing work better. Adjusting the sauce by adding acid, such as a citrus juice, enhances the pairing, and sweet ingredients, like crab meat, balance the taste. Creamy dips made with mayonnaise or melted butter coat the palate and counteract the bitterness, too," he says.

St. Supéry winery chef Ron Barber favors Sauvignon Blanc with artichokes. "The wine may appear to have a little more acid, but I kind of like it that way," he notes. "I like to serve artichokes with a homemade mayonnaise combined with fresh chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. The lemon juice helps bring back a little more of the fruit in the wine." By way of a disclaimer, he adds, "All pairing advice is very subjective," and depending on the wine and recipe, "your results may vary."

Native Californian and former Wente Vineyards chef and cookbook author Kendall Jones, now executive chef at The Carneros Inn in Napa, applies an organic approach that makes for intriguing combinations. "When I develop a recipe, my general approach begins with the wine. I want my choice of wine to taste as it was meant to, not pushed out of balance by the food with which it is served," he comments. He happily matches Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé with artichoke-ricotta fritters accented by Meyer lemon purée. For whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or Albariño, he sautés sweetbreads in brown butter and lavishes the dish with capers, pine nuts and a purée of artichokes - the result is a yin-yang of salty and sweet. He ventures into red territory with Sangiovese, which he drafts for his calzone with artichokes, Westphalian ham, ricotta and Parmesan. "The varietal has a reasonably soft tannic structure and good flavor that is not confounded by the artichoke," he notes.

In Monterey County at Ocean Mist Farms, the largest producer of artichokes in the country, Dale Huss, vice president of production, agrees. "Artichokes are a natural with wine. Both are sensuous experiences." He further suggests that because "artichokes stimulate the liver, you can even have an extra glass or two of wine."

Enough artichokes are grown in California to disprove the axiom that artichokes and wine are incompatible, if only by association. In fact, according to the California Artichoke Advisory Board, the Golden State grows virtually 100 percent of the nation's supply of fresh artichokes. The $150 million dollar industry produces more than 4.1 million cartons of artichokes on 7,000 acres, 75 percent of which is grown in Monterey County, where the cool summers, mild winters, higher humidity, proximity to the ocean and lower evening temperatures are an artichoke's ideal climate. This climatic recipe also favors world-class wine production, supporting the rule that food and wine that share a terroir can be complementary tablemates.

 Unlike wine grapes, artichokes are perennials by nature and produce year-round, yet they are considered a spring crop because high season in California is March through May. A single plant will produce about 35 buds, all on the same stalk, but in three sizes: The largest artichokes weigh about ten ounces, ripen at the top of the plant and are the first to be harvested; the medium-size ones, about seven ounces, tend to be ready a week after the first harvest; and the so-called "baby" artichokes, which sprout at the point where the leaf meets the stalk, ripen last, are picked at their mature size, and usually don't contain chokes.

Artichoke fields, like some vineyards, can be costly to maintain. Hand-harvesting is required, and because of constant growth, the fields may need to be harvested up to 30 times per year. And because the plants cover the ground year round, they offer refuge to pests and diseases that can burrow into the soil. Steve Jordan, partner along with his brother Rusty in Baroda Farms in Santa Barbara, found a solution to these problems by growing artichokes as an annual crop and tilling the seeded plants under every six to eight months (perennials every two years). They also began an artichoke seed program twelve years ago, creating "Big Heart," a cross-bred artichoke with more meat, almost thorn-less leaves, a bigger heart and better flavor.

Baroda Farms, founded in 1973, is one of the few remaining family farms on the Central Coast. "We grow [and ship] about 100,000 boxes of artichokes annually," Jordan says. "We are also importing 15 varieties of Italian and French rootstock." For many growers, leaving on longer stems - as do European farmers supplying their green markets - would be too costly to ship because of the additional bulk. Jordan, however, is harvesting the "Eurochoke," with a meatier leaf and a long, edible stalk, ranging from 8 to 16 inches, and shipping them in larger boxes typically used for cauliflower.

Seed artichokes may be the industry's future, but for now the Green Globe perennial variety accounts for about 90 percent of the artichoke harvest. And for good reason, notes Dale Huss: "Our research and development department has spent many decades developing our artichokes, and we never stop looking for ways to improve the taste. I've traveled the world over - from Brazil, Chile and Peru to Italy, Spain and France - and our Castroville Green Globe is the best in the world, bar none."

The Green Globe is a prime reason Cetrella's executive chef Lewis Rossman was lured from the position of chef de cuisine at Acquarello in San Francisco. He says he found the prospect of working closely with the farmers around Half Moon Bay irresistible. Cetrella restaurant occupies the site of the historic Growers Association building, where farmers once delivered their produce for shipment to urban markets; now they truck their artichokes and other produce to the complex and sell it directly to the shoppers at the Coastside Market in Cetrella's parking lot on Saturdays from April through November. "The Green Globes are so fresh they sing," Rossman says.

Like many California chefs, Rossman has developed countless artichoke recipes. His fritto misto combination - batter-fried Giusti Farms artichokes and royal trumpet mushrooms with asparagus, Swiss Chard stems and lemon - is a house favorite. But his kitchen also roasts, stews and stuffs artichokes; many entrées are served with a side of crisp grilled artichokes; and he often parboils baby artichokes, then slices and browns them in olive oil with shallots. The frequency of the artichoke's billing on the menu is a challenge well met by wine director and sommelier Chris Bradford, who has assembled an international list of more than 400 bottles. "I prefer a light, crisp, non-acidic wine with notes of green apple, like an Austrian Grüner Veltliner, for lighter artichoke preparations, and an Oregon Pinot Blanc for heavier dishes like the fritto misto. Or you could even pair a California Viognier." A particularly apt choice would be Wild Horse's Central Coast Viognier with its charming floral and spice notes.

After all, it only stands to reason that with a vegetable as versatile as the artichoke, one should "leave" the options open.

Food Editor Carole Kotkin manages the Ocean Reef Club Cooking School in Key Largo; is a syndicated columnist for KnightRidder; is co-author of Mmmmiami; and co-hosts Food & Wine Talk on WDNA FM.

Artichoke Accents:

When you crave the flavor and texture of artichokes but lack the time to prepare them, consider turning to ready-made condiments such as NapaStyle's Tuscan Artichoke Spread ($9), a tangy lemon- and sea salt-infused recipe displaying a velvety texture (lent by white beans) and a distinct artichoke presence. "The spread is ready for crusty rustic bread, some Pecorino cheese and sparkling wine, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio - bright with bright," says its maker, chef Michael Chiarello. He also suggests using it for bruschetta, adding it to pasta or risotto, as a topping for fish or stuffed into a roulade of beef. Another wine country company, Napa Valley Harvest, bottles a lush purée called Artichoke & Roasted Garlic Dip-Topping-Spread ($6). It's loaded with generous nuggets of artichoke and spiked with unctuous Parmesan and garlic. The more delicate Spinach Artichoke Dip ($7) is marketed by Classy Delites and deftly blends spinach and onions with the main ingredient. It makes a convenient, wine-friendly topping for baked oysters. Santa Barbara Artichoke Salsa ($4), produced by California Creative Foods, combines chunky tomatoes and chili peppers with tender bits of artichoke that peek through the spicy profile. A Sangiovese might flatter any dish accented by this robust salsa.

Artichoke Tips:

Choose firm, bright green artichokes with tightly packed leaves; withered, opened leaves indicate that the artichoke is old. Leaves rubbed against each other should produce a squeaking sound. Browning of the tips can indicate age, but can also indicate frost damage that does not affect the flavor. Keep fresh artichokes in the refrigerator and plan to use them within three or four days of purchase. Artichoke flesh discolors after exposure to air; to prevent this, rub it with lemon soon after cutting. Drop artichoke hearts into acidulated water when you finish preparing them; they can be stored overnight in the water. Use stainless steel or other non-reactive knives and cooking utensils to cut, pare and cook the artichokes; cast-iron or aluminum will turn the artichokes black.

Anatomy:

The heart is the pale green inner leaves and the firm-fleshed base, with the choke removed. The bottom is the firm-fleshed base with the leaves and fuzzy center removed. If a recipe calls for bottoms, buy larger artichokes because the bottom will be much more meaty and ample. They make delectable, edible vessels for all manner of hors d'oeuvres and individual soufflés.

Artichoke Basics:

Follow these simple steps for basic preparation, cooking and serving: Preparation o Rinse artichokes with cold water. o With a sharp, heavy knife, trim off the stem and top third of the petals. Peel the stem and save it to cook along with artichokes, then cut into bite-size pieces and enjoy with the heart.  Trim tips of remaining petals with scissors or kitchen shears.

Cooking To Boil:

Place artichokes, stem end down, in large saucepan or pot. Add water to 3 inches in bottom of pan, 1 sliced lemon and 2 cloves garlic (if desired). Heat to boiling, then reduce to simmer. Cover and cook until a petal pulls out easily, about 30 to 35 minutes, depending on size of artichokes. Larger artichokes will take 5 to 10 minutes longer. To Steam: Place artichokes, stem end down, on steamer rack in large saucepan or pot. Add water to bottom of steamer rack. Heat to boiling, then reduce to simmer. Cover and cook until a petal pulls out easily, about 30 to 35 minutes, depending on size of artichokes. Larger artichokes will take 5 to 10 minutes longer. Microwave: Place artichokes, stem end down, in a tall, microwaveable container (a 2-quart glass measure will hold 2 large or 3 medium artichokes). Add water to 1/2" in bottom of container. Cover with lid or plastic wrap and microwave on high until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on size of artichoke. Let stand 1 or 2 minutes before testing for doneness. One artichoke takes about 6 to 8 minutes.

Slow Cook:

Place artichokes in slow cooker, stem end down and add water to 2 inches in bottom of container. If desired, add a sliced lemon and 2 peeled cloves of garlic. Cover and cook until a petal pulls out easily, on low for 6 to 8 hours, or high for 4 hours.

Skillet Steamed:

Cut artichokes in half lengthwise (no need to remove stem). Place in large skillet or electric skillet, cut side down. Add water to make 1" in bottom of skillet. Add 1 sliced lemon and 2 peeled garlic cloves, if desired. Heat to boiling, reduce to simmer, cover and cook until a petal pulls out easily, about 20 to 25 minutes, depending on size of artichokes. Serving Drain cooked artichokes well by standing with stem end up or on cut side. When drained, stand on end and gently press thumbs into center to pull petals apart. Using a spoon, grapefruit spoon or melon baller, remove fuzzy choke in center of artichoke and discard.

Serve artichoke with mayonnaise, lemon-butter or a favorite dip, along with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, a bowl to toss discarded leaves and an ample supply of paper napkins. - CK

Herb Buttermilk Dip From Chef Eric Lee of Simi Winery

• 3 ounces mayonnaise
• 3 ounces sour cream
• 3 ounces buttermilk
• 3 tablespoons Simi Chardonnay
• 2 bunches chives, chopped
• 1/4 bunch Italian flat parsley, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 shallots, minced
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Whisk ingredients together until blended; serve with steamed artichokes. Makes 11/2 cups

Sliced Artichoke Carpaccio with Peppered Tuna "Crudo" From Chef Dewey LoSasso of North One 10

• 1 medium-size raw artichoke bottom, sliced wafer thin on mandolin
• 1 lemon
• Salt and cracked pepper to taste
• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 5 ounces sushi grade, fresh raw tuna
• 3 tablespoons white truffle oil or roastedgarlic olive oil (optional)
• Marinate raw artichoke in lemon, salt, pepper and olive oil; reserve. Roll tuna in salt and pepper; chill. Slice and place tuna on chilled plate; top with artichoke carpaccio. Drizzle with truffle or garlic oil (optional). Serves 1

Artichoke, Goat Cheese & Leek Custard From Chef Ron Barber of St. Supéry

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/4 cup leeks, white part only, chopped
• 1 clove garlic, peeled & chopped
• 2 artichoke bottoms, finely chopped
• Salt & white pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc
• 1/2 cup cream
• 5 ounces soft goat cheese
• 2 eggs, large
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon chives, chopped
• Non-stick cooking spray
• Preheat oven to 350°. In a medium sauce pan, heat oil over a low flame. Sauté leeks and garlic until soft. Add artichokes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add wine and simmer, covered, until artichoke bottoms are tender. Add a little water if pan dries out. Remove from heat. In a saucepan, heat cream to a simmer and add goat cheese. Stir until cheese is melted. Place cheese mixture, artichokes, eggs and lemon juice into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Spray four 4-ounce ramekins with nonstick spray and fill about 3/4 full with artichoke mixture. Place ramekins in a baking dish and fill with enough hot water to come about halfway up the sides. Bake for approximately 30 minutes or until custard is no longer liquid. Garnish with chives and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4

Roasted Herbed Artichokes with Leeks From Ocean Mist Farms 

•  6 medium to large artichokes
• 1/3 cup white wine vinegar or lemon juice, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 medium leeks, trimmed, cleaned and sliced
• 1/2 cup each chopped fresh basil, mint and Italian parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• Olive oil
• Rinse artichokes under cold running water. Trim off stem ends and discard. Cut stems off at base and set aside. Cut off top third of petals. Stand artichokes stem side down in large saucepan or pot and add enough water to fill not quite halfway. Add reserved stems, 3 tablespoons of vinegar and salt. Heat to boiling; reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook until a petal pulls out easily, about 30-35 minutes. Carefully remove artichokes from pan and turn upside down to drain and cool slightly. Remove cooked stems, chop and set aside. Preheat oven to 425°. In large skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil. Add sliced leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are very tender, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in chopped stems, basil, mint, Italian parsley, salt and pepper. Using a spoon, remove fuzzy center of artichokes. Sprinkle remaining vinegar or lemon juice into center of artichokes. Divide leek-herb mixture among the 6 artichoke cups. Arrange artichokes in 9x9" pan or baking dish to hold them snugly together. Brush the tops of the artichokes and outside leaves with olive oil. Bake until just heated through, about 10 minutes. Serves 6

Couscous-Stuffed Artichokes From Ocean Mist Farms

• 2 medium artichokes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup dry couscous
• 1 can (7 oz.) water-packed tuna, drained and flaked
• 2 tablespoons chopped sweet red pepper
• 2 tablespoons chopped green onions
• 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or oregano
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Rinse artichokes. Use a sharp knife to cut off the stem at the base, then cut off the top 1/3 of the artichoke. Trim the tips of the leaves with scissors or kitchen shears. Stand artichokes in a deep saucepan and add about 3 inches of water, along with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. Cover and boil gently until a petal near the center pulls out easily, about 25-30 minutes. Lift artichokes out of pan and turn upside down to drain. Reserve cooking liquid to use for couscous. Remove and discard center leaves of artichoke and scrape out fuzzy center with a spoon. Prepare couscous according to package directions, using the cooking liquid in place of water. Stir in tuna, pepper, onions and oregano; season to taste. Spoon half the couscous mixture into the center of each artichoke. Garnish with fresh herb sprig, if desired. Serves 2

Vegetable Fritto Misto From Chef Lewis Rossman of Cetrella

• 2 artichokes, hearts only, cleaned
• 1/2 head cauliflower, chopped into florets
• 6 green olives, pitted
• 1 portobello mushroom, diced
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 3 cups whole milk
• 2 quarts canola oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Carefully heat oil in a large pot to 350°. Dip vegetables in milk, then coat with flour. Shake off excess flour. Carefully add vegetables to hot oil, one at a time. Fry for 3-5 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oil onto a paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Place fritto misto into a bowl and serve with a wedge of lemon. Serves 2

Roasted Artichoke Salad From Casual Cooking by Michael Chiarello

• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 6 medium artichokes
• 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, quartered lengthwise
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon sea salt, preferably gray salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 3/4 cup firmly packed fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves
• 24 pitted Kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise
• 1/2 lemon
• Preheat oven to 325°. Select a nonreactive bowl large enough to hold all the artichokes once they are trimmed, and pour the lemon juice into it. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, bend the tough outer leaves backward until they break; stop when you reach the more tender interior leaves that are at least half yellow-green. With a serrated knife, cut across the leaves at the point where the color changes from yellow-green to dark green. Trim the stem of its outer layer, then trim the base, removing any dark green bits. Halve the artichokes lengthwise and scoop out the hairy choke. As the artichokes are trimmed, drop them into the lemon juice and turn to coat. Toss occasionally. When all artichokes are trimmed, transfer them and the lemon juice to a large skillet and add olive oil, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, tossing to coat artichokes with seasonings. Transfer to oven and cook until artichokes are browned in spots and tender when pierced, about 35 minutes. Let cool, then cut each half into quarters or thirds lengthwise. In a bowl, combine artichokes, onion, parsley and olives. Just before serving, season to taste with lemon juice. Serves 6

Chicken with Artichokes and Lemon From Carole Kotkin

• 3 lemons cut in half
• 16 baby artichokes (substitute frozen artichoke hearts)
• 8 small potatoes
• 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 3 or 4 thyme sprigs
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 8 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 2" chunks
• 2 red onions, sliced 1/4" thick
• 1/2 cup chicken broth, either homemade or low-sodium canned
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup Niçoise olives
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped